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As of July 2016 the new Safety laws of Ontario require the use of scaffolds or booms to work at height.
Here, we used an articulated boom to safely deconstruct the chimney, with tarps on the roof and on the ground to catch the dust and debris from this weak and decaying chimney. We use booms to reach difficult places when scaffolds are not sensible.
| ||Installing a metal cap
We completely rebuilt this chimney, replacing the old multi-piece stone cap with one of metal. The metal cap won't crack, but does need caulking periodically. There are a variety of colours in metal caps to match your existing flashing.
John has his Fall Protection certificate up-to-date, and uses a high quality harness, lanyard, rope grab, lifeline, ladder and an assistant when doing roof work.
| ||A Chimney with Two Problems|
The unused left-hand ceramic flue liner was leaking water into the chimney.
More unusually, instead of more of the white cement brick, someone had used white interlock patio pavers for several rows.
15 rows of bricks needed replacement due to the water damage.
|Extracting a broken Flue
The chimney's broken flue, just above the hearth and 17 feet down from the top, prevents this chimney from being certified for use.
|Widening a Window and Lintel
Here we remove bricks and install a larger iron lintel, above the window and sitting on the foundation, to support the bricks and wall above.
|Replacing a Window Sill
In this case we had to custom make sills to fit, as newly manufactured sills would not fit.
Mortar sets the sill and brick. New windows were being installed.
We used to be allowed to use a ladder to do work like this, now we need scaffolding or booms. Ladders are only for access, never for work.
|Extracting individual bricks
Spalling and other problems caused 25 bricks at this location to require removal and replacement.
The extra work of digging out joints improves durability.
Make sure your contractor lets you see the cleaned out joints before filling them in.
Some masons simply put a skim coat over broken joints, which won't last as long.
|Rebuilding a Dividing Wall
A free-standing wall built in 2006 with about 500 oversize bricks. Brought down and rebuilt with new bricks.
When it's hot and dry the moisture in the bricks evaporates, so we pre-soak the bricks to avoid pulling water from the mortar, and we mist the wall to slow the curing process.
A section of wall had slowly collapsed due to holes in the mortar. Regular pointing maintenance prevents this.
Here we used a string guide because the wall wasn't level, we needed to be true to the rest of the wall.
This old wall, like others of its era, used hand-made nails used as brick ties.
Set into the mortar and attached to the wall, they provide stability to a veneer wall.
Placed at least every third course and less than 18 inches apart.
The waffle design allows for some flex while remaining attached.
Here one door was created, another closed.
Tarps, two layers of plastic with an air pocket in between, heaters, warm water, and warm masonry materials, make this work.
|Bay window brick rebuild
A damaged brick window sill led to wood damage behind the bricks below.
After a carpenter rebuilt the framing with new wood, we've rebricked and installed a better sill.
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